Snowdrops (Galanthus)

Snowdrops (Galanthus) are a welcomed sign of the arrival of spring. Around twenty species exist. All are immensely promiscuous and hybridize freely to produce thousands of varieties. These tough little plants can pop up through the snow anytime from December to late January or February depending upon the weather.

Snow drops grow from a small corm planted in the fall or a division of an existing plant. The corms dry out quickly and are often in poor condition by the time gardens buy and plant them in the fall.

If you missed the opportunity to plant snowdrops for this year, your chance for next year is right now. The most reliable way to establish snowdrops in your garden is to buy or beg plants growing “in the green” (that is just after they have finished flowering). Knock them out of the pot or pull apart a clump given to you, separate them and plant the bulbs into clumps of 3 – 5 bulbs. Large clumps should be divided every five years and can be done either “in the green” in spring or as late as July or August while they are dormant. The bulbs will multiply quickly and grow into large drifts.

Some snowdrops like the common snowdrops, Galanthus nivalis and its double form, G. n. ’Flore Pleno’, have a light honey-like scent. G. ‘S. Arnott’is also valued for its fragrance. G. elwesii is the supersized species with broad leaves and large flowers.

Snow drops grow in shady, moisture retentive but not waterlogged soil. Chose places as under deciduous trees, in the lawn, if you can leave the lawn unmown until late spring or lining pathways that can be seen from inside or as you leave the house. They also do well in containers. Plants are deer and rabbit resistant and go dormant over the hot summer months of drought. If you are going to use mulch, use a light organic medium like leaf mould rather than a heavier manure.

Other Jobs for February:

• If you did not plant bulbs in the fall, you can buy pots of growing bulbs and insert them into containers or borders near the end of February (weather depending).
• Cut back clematis – large flowering group B (or 2) – Trim back to several fat buds on the lower stem
                                                  –  late flowering group C (or 3) – hard prune to 15 – 30cm off the ground
                                                  –  do not prune spring blooming group A (or 1) until after they bloom
• Assess the structure and design of your garden while the “bones” are visible. Review areas that you have noted need upgrading. Look at photos you may have taken. Start planning for this year’s garden. Order the seeds you will need.
• Clean up your greenhouse, potting shed or indoor growing area to be ready for seed starting. Check and replenish your supplies of seedling mix, potting soil, containers and trays. Reuse as many plastics as possible.
• Clean up and wash any dirty pots. Recycle those you do not need keeping only enough to pot on seedlings if you plan to grow plants from seeds in the upcoming months.
• Make sure your tools are clean, sharp and in good condition.
• Tidy up garden plants that have become mushy or unsightly.
• Prepare vegetable beds by adding a layer of compost and dolomite lime two weeks later. Start cool weather vegetables such as spinach, lettuce, green onions, oriental greens and leeks in cold frames, poly tunnels or under lights in a garage, basement or shed. Check stored summer bulbs, corms and tubers (dalhias, gladiolas, begonias …) for signs of rot or dehydration.
• Remove winter weeds before they self-seed.
• Start sowing perennials that need a longer growing period.
• Pot up geranium cuttings or stored roots in late February. Begin feeding with half strength fertilizer. Place under lights or on window sills.